Although food must still be stored securely from wildlife, canisters are not required for camping or bivying on glaciers or on high routes along ridge lines. A perfect combination of glacier and moderate rock climbing in a dramatic Cascade setting. Day 2 . Depends on, Appreciation climb for volunteers of the 2023 Seattle Intensive Basic Alpine Climbing Course, Basic Alpine Climb - Mount Shuksan/Fisher Chimneys, Basic Glacier Climb - Mount Shuksan/Fisher Chimneys. The Northwest Rib is nearly unknown, and rarely climbed. ), are not NWAG responsibility and will not result in refund or reschedule. Please note that a minimum of two participants is required to guarantee each departure at the advertised price. However, excellent weather and generous trip planning made this a very successful outing with abundant learning opportunities. X NO backpacking or trekking boots are allowed above high camp on any trip. Video Resource: Mountain Snack and Lunch Ideas. Physical fitness is the foundationof everymountainadventure. Climbers should monitor the forecast diligently before beginning a trip and turn around if conditions deteriorate. At 8:00 a.m. on the morning of the climb, we meet at the Guide Hut in Sedro-Woolley, WA for equipment check and orientation before heading to the trailhead. What a beautiful place! Joe getting ready to do the fun little 'au cheval' exposed step over on the chimney traverse section. 6-ish miles and a few hours later, after digging deep into our energy reserves, we arrived back at the cars at 12:30am; 20 hours and 42 minutes after we had stepped onto the Upper Curtis Glacier that morning. Traverse for about 70 ft, then turn left up a side gully 100 ft to where the route tops out on the ridge. Photo by K.Beckwith. When projects are 750 square feet or more, Grading and Stormwater Management (SWM) are required to be implemented for a project. The Fisher Chimneys route on Mt. I wanted to get a complex route with glacier travel and technical rock under my belt this summer, so I decided to grab the permit and make Fisher Chimneys with SE Ridge our objective. Date changes are subject to availability and apply only to the current climbing season. Fisher Chimneys- 7/18/16. If departing on the last day of the program, we recommend booking a flight later than 10 pm. Mt. With an adventure sport like mountaineering, safety is paramount. Mountaineering is a strenuous activity that imposes unique demands on our bodies. Considering Rob and Joe had spent over 13 hours doing a very large list of firsts on a tough mountaineering route, I knew that trying to force everyone to solo downclimb the entire chimney section wasnt going to be a great idea. Mountain climbing can be unpredictable weather conditions can change in a moment and one wrong step can lead to an injury. Climbers flying to Washington State must arrive the day before their program begins in order the meet the group for an early morning gear check and orientation. This is not a blanket requirement for the entire park or for all portions of these zones, and was purposely limited, after two years of internal review and public comment, to areas of high use by both humans and wildlife, where wildlife has become habituated to getting human food, and other methods of food storage were ineffective, improper, or impossible. Three or four 15-minute lunch & snack breaks during the hike to high camp. Fisher Chimneys 3 Day Ascent. Kara scrambling in Fisher Chimneys. MT. It wasnt exactly enjoyable or easy to wake up so early, but it had to happen, so we pushed through and were moving by 3:40am. The Sulphide Glacier, the Fisher Chimneys, and the North Face are all commonly climbed, and regularly guided. This is an advanced climb that showcases the majesty of the North Cascades. If there is no trail or designated camp, always look for rock, snow, or bare ground to travel or pitch camp. Mount Shuksan: Fisher Chimneys Attempt. Consider the experience of your party and ensure you have adequately experienced climbers to supervise/assist lessexperienced climbers throughthe bottlenecks and rockfall hazards presented on this climb. Climb the gully past two class 3-4 steps and short traverses and up a longer, straight section. Ascend Hell's Highway then the Sulphide Glacier to the base of the summit pyramid, which can be climbed by the right skyline or by a gully up the center (exposed class 4, 600 ft). These trips are low ratio, small group expeditions led by some of the most experienced guides in the business. The approach is brutalvery steep and much longer than the guidebooks make it seem, and the slabs can be sketchy, the route finding is much more challenging, and time management and speed is a big deal because it's much a longer route, you're pitching out sections which takes a lot of time, and there . Aug 3. Flagging and excessive webbing are considered trashpack them out like you do all of your other garbage! I listed Rob as the alternate trip leader on the permit since he would have an easier time skipping out of work early on Friday to make it to the ranger station in time to grab the permit. I decided to go with a pre-rigged rappel with clove hitches between each climber on the anchor to make it as stress free as possible. Summit day begins with a pre-dawn start and a climb up Winnie's Slide on moderate snow and ice. Ascend/traverse the glacier, working left around crevasses. Rob's trial by fire scrambling with an overnight pack on his first day climbing a mountain. Northwest Alpine Guides makes every effort to uphold the scheduled itinerary, although our guides are given discretion to adapt the itinerary for reasons beyond our control or due to the needs of the group. The anchors at the top of the Chimneys are best used only when there . LINKSContact UsThe Bureau BlogPrivate Guiding RatesTerms and ConditionsFair-Trade-Living-WageOur GuidesPartnersAdvocacyOur PilotsTrip InsuranceFitness TrainingCOVID-19 InformationFor Guides, Festivals & Special EventsMazama Rock FestIndex Climbers FestivalCascadia SplitfestRockToberOutdoors@. Northwest Alpine Guides will provide the group with hot cooking water for breakfast and dinner. Turn around when conditions or common sense tell you to do so. Suggested food items: Alpine Breakfast: Instant oatmeal, Pop Tarts, dried fruit, granola bars, bagels, peanut butter, cream cheese. You or your entire party may have to turn around without reaching the summit. According to Fred Beckey: Mt. Webbing left behind on climbing routes has also become an eyesorepounds and pounds of colorful, fraying webbing clutter some climbs. Joe coming down the first rappel from just below the summit. RMI's guides have been climbing and guiding in the Alaska Range for over half a century. Our initial plan was to camp at the bottom of Winnie's slide but the ranger station put an end to that saying all permits for the Price glacier area were gone for the weekend. Baker-Snoqualmie & Okanogan-Wenatchee, and Shoshone National Forests, the North Cascades and Denali National Parks, as well as Monticello, Moab, and Banks Lake Bureau of Land Management and Washington State Parks. We did our best to keep our bags dry as we packed up and hit the trail by around 8am to tackle the chimneys. Protect wildlife and your gear Plan to depart the day after the climb ends. Mountaineers Books is a registered trademark of The Mountaineers, a 501(c)(3) nonprofit organization. I made sure to follow the main upper route on the way down, which involved more 3rd class down climbing than I expected. To make a climbing report, please e-mail the Wilderness Information Center in Marblemount. Guidebooks Numerous popular climbing guidebooks are available for learning about routes and peaks in the park. Trails Hiked. No trip planning is complete until you consider the most important element of any climb: returning safely and without injury. Read the leader's notes and understand the trip, Prerequisites, Leader's Permission Required, Mentored lead for Frank Chai. They can be purchased in advance or the day of the gear check. One waste kit per 1-3 days is typically sufficient. Vertical Descent Hiking: 2,000 feet My goal for the summer of 2022 was to reinvigorate my goal of leading alpine climbs; the last time I had led anything was back in 2016-2017; and at that time, I had led a few multi-pitch rock climbs to 5.7 but nothing truly alpine. Running, swimming, cycling and other sports may help you prepare for your climb, but they are usually not sufficient. Note: CamelBaks and other bladder-style hydration systems may be used in addition to two water bottles, but are not sufficient. Pack your waste out in a blue bag or other pack out system (kitty litter in a paper bag, PVC poop tube or whatever other inventive contraption you would like to carry). You may also consider bringing a cold meal of dried meat, bread, pizza, or sandwiches. If you wish to stay close to the meeting location the night before your climb, we recommend the following options: Three Rivers Inn Hotel All our instructors have advanced avalanche training, wilderness medical training, and will instruct you how to be self-reliant in the mountains. Photo Daniel Bynum. Itinerary Notes Trailhead: Shannon Ridge, 2500 ft. High Camp: 6500 ft. Camp to Summit: 4-5 hours, 2700 ft. gain. After a short time, we began the descent. Check the weather, avalanche forecast, gear recommendations, and more on the safety page. It is longer, steeper, and involves more technical terrain than the standard Sulphide Glacier Route on Mount Shuksan. Rising to a height of 9,131 feet, Mt. Spontaneity Arete from the previous weekend. Our summit day starts early with a pre-dawn alpine start. THE FISHER CHIMNEYS ITINERARY The trip will start on Day 1 at 8 am at the Glacier Ranger Station in Glacier, WA. My Tarptent ProTrail Li has never been that easy to set up but perfectly, but it was great for this trip; light, well ventilated and with a compact footprint. Follow a trail toward the lower Curtis Glacier. Never bury waste in snow, throw it in a crevasse, or smear it near your route or camp. Camped at Ann lake. Mt. Their jagged ridges and rocky summits are surrounded by snowfields and glaciers, which will put all of your previous mountaineering skills to the test. On this trip we will attempt the Fisher Chimney's . Hot, boiled cooking water will be provided for your meal preparation, for example for freeze-dried dinners, instant soups, instant oatmeal and hot drinks. Both Joe and Rob looked at the first section of class 4 and seemed like they wanted to ask if we were going to rope up, so I quickly started scrambling to keep the momentum going and show that it wasnt as intimidating as it looked. I had us pack 2 ropes, a 60m 9.5 and a 50m 8.9, for redundancy and in hopes that we would be able to link some rappels on the way down for efficiency. All scheduled programs can also be booked with custom dates and itineraries. We cross two glaciers, the White Salmon and the Upper Curtis, then ascend Hells Highway to the Sulphide Glacier and the base of the summit pyramid. Mount Shuksan/Fisher Chimneys. Climb 3rd and 4th class alpine rock up the spectacular Fisher Chimneys to the summit of Mount Shuksan. Authorized guide services If you are just learning to climb or are looking to expand your mountaineering skills, a guided course or class might be right for you. This low ratio program (2:1 max) is tailored to the goals, objectives, and experience level of participants, including ascents of both Mt. It switchbacks, crosses two gullys, and becomes obscure just before the entrance of the first chimney. Mountain Tactical Institute. September 2017. At the base of the slide, the bivy spots were full, but we were told by the previous party that everyone up there had summited that day and were coming down. After that, climbing permits are obtained on a first-come, first-serve basis and subject to limited availability. During open hours at the Guide Hut, you may pick up pre-reserved rentals, try on rental boots, and purchase last-minute items. The North Cascades are a climber's playground. Our instructors are highly skilled professional guides who have been selected based on their technical proficiency, proven safety records, careful judgment, patience, and supportive teaching styles. Johannesburg Mountain in the background during an ascent of the Torment-Forbidden-Traverse Photo: Mark Allen. The small town of Sedro-Woolley, The Gateway to the North Cascades, is approximately 70 miles and a 1.5-hour drive from Seattle or Bellevue. Shuksan via the Fisher Chimneys and SE Rib on the summit spire. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. Continue driving another 45 minutes to the Lake Anne Trailhead. ), wearing mountain boots no less. There is some exposure to the bottom right, and in this instance the backed-up rappel was definitely a good choice for tired climbers pushing through a very long summit day. Single-use passes are $5.00 per day. Travel, evacuation and rescue coverage designed for adventure travelers. Photo Daniel Bynum. Please read ourGuide Picksblog postfor gear recommendations by specific brands. No summit is ever worth injury or death. I found the downclimbing easy to make up the difference, however for Joe and Rob this improvisational transition and the end of each rappel added some extra time. I knew we had much more time than that, so I wasnt going to consider truly turning around until noon. Photo from Joe. Photos. Participants age 15: May only participate in private climbs and must be accompanied by a parent or legal guardian. We set up our tents near the toe of the White Salmon Glacier at 6,700 feet. I didnt realize at the time, but the low route was certainly the least used.and by least, I mean probably almost never. However, Spontaneity Arete was also not normally a persons first ever alpine rock climb and Joe had kept it together and followed me up that without issue. Dont smear it on a rock nearbyit gets in the water, and if you camped here, someone else probably will, too. Snow . Shuksan epitomizes the jagged alpine peak Continue Reading A one hour climbing skills training will be taught. Distance: 5 miles, 4,000 ft. gain. Trip Date: July 7-8, 2018 Distance: ~14 . Many areas of the park are remote and seldom visited, with few or no current conditions reports. This will help reduce smells and animal visits to your camp. It weaves through a steep and exposed chimney system on the Shuksan Arm, briefly touches the top of White Salmon Glacier, up a steep snow slope, across the dramatic Upper Curtis Glacier, up a second steep step to the Sulphide Glacier and finishes at the 3/4th class . The Mountain Bureau LLC operates under Special Use Permits with the Mt. Heading up the final slope to the start of the chimneys. Climbed mt Shuksan via Fisher Chimneys Route. At 8:00 a.m. on the morning of the climb, we meet at the Guide Hut in Sedro-Woolley, WA for equipment check and orientation before heading to the trailhead. Shuksan is located in the North Cascades National Park at the edge of the Mount Baker Scenic Byway. This trail goes by Park Boundary Marker, Upper Curtis Glacier, and The Hourglass. The 50/60m double rope setup reached the '3rd' rap station no problem. Overview. Burlington, WA 98233, La Quinta Inn & Suites by Wyndham Burlington Depends on, Priority for the Everett basic students others open up on July 1st . The approach to high camp via hiking and easy rock climbing in a series of chimneys takes 6 hours. Not a bad considering it was Joe's first ever climbing experience of any kind! Climbers must have the proper equipment, skills, and experience for a given route. All programs are subject to the Mountain Bureau LLC Terms & Conditions, MOUNTAIN BUREAU LLC 1752 Northwest Market Street Box 414, Seattle, Washington, United States +1.6-one-9.432.546-two contact@mountainbureau.com. For more info about current coverage plans and quotes please visit. Watch for rockfall in the chimneys and take special care on the summit pyramid gully because of loose rock and multiple parties. Joe making his way up the ridge. Shuksan. Mt Shuksan - Fisher Chimney's + SE Ridge. A backcountry permit is required year-round for all overnight trips within the park complex, climbs included. The experience of more sustained rock scrambling with full packs was new for Joe and Rob but they kept at it steadily. For your safety and the safety of your rope team, you mustbe able to maintain the pace set by our guideswhile maintaining reserves of strength. The team will start with a welcome meeting, run through a group gear-check and program orientation. Baker-Snoqualmie & Okanogan-Wenatchee, and Shoshone National Forests, the North Cascades and Denali National Parks, as well as Monticello, Moab, and Banks Lake Bureau of Land Management and Washington State Parks. Backcountry Permits. Mount Shuksan: Location: USA-Washington: Elevation: 9131 ft / 2783 m: Ascent Trip Report 4 of us attempted Mount Shuksan via the Fisher Chimneys. Permits are mandatory any time you plan to spend the night, whether in a tent or at a bivy site. $300.00 deposit includes a $200.00 non-refundable registration fee, due with application. We enjoy dinner and go to bed early for the next days climb. Although I started out with 4 people, life and work chipped away at each persons schedule so by the time the first weekend in August came around we had not yet gotten to do our practical snow skills. If you feel you cannot safely navigate the terrain without leaving a marker, label your stakes or flagging and then be diligent and responsible in removing each and every one. Both the popularity and rockfall risk on this climb can create dangerous situations. We recommend Signature Travel Insurance. Care for the trees (and flowers and meadows) June 27-28. The boot pack was obvious once it joined with the more popular Sulphide glacier route. Photo by NPS/ W . Tax ID: 27-3009280. Joe finally soaking up some sun once we got above the cloud layer. Fisher Chimneys or North Face Climbs. There are a couple down trees on the trail in the forest. Travel insurance offers the best protection in the event of a sudden, unexpected illness, an injury prior to or while traveling, or a possible family emergency. Wilderness Information Center in Marblemount find out current ranger station hours, phone number, and location for the backcountry and climbing information station for the park. I got him on belay, had him remove the micro-traxion when he got to it, and then bring up Joe. Climb for experienced climbers or basic graduates. 1. Rob scrambling up to the start of his first ever rock climb (of any kind! Also remember that in this wilderness park the vegetation is protected: cutting, limbing, or destroying vegetation is illegal and can result in a serious citation. The summit pyramid has an option for a 5th class trad climb via the Southeast Rib. Hike south on Lake Ann Trail over Austin Pass (4,700 ft). Shuksan, Fisher Chimneys via SE Ridge. When preparing lunches, please do not bring food items that require cooking or extensive preparation. The mountains feature steep rugged glacially sculpted rocky mountain peaks with the most expansive glacial system in the contiguous United States. SE Ridge was clear of snow all the way to the summit, decent enough rock, no slings or anchors on the ridge proper. You are responsible to carry all of your personal gear and food, as well as a portion of group gear (tents, ropes, stoves, fuel, etc.). There are composting toilets at climbing areas in Boston Basin and the Sulphide Glacier on Mt. Need help choosing a trip? More extensive food, shopping and lodging options may be found nearby in the cities of Mount Vernon and Burlington. updates, images, or resources. Vertical Gain Climbing: 2,500 feet Burlington, WA 98233. Day 2. This was also a great opportunity to show them how to build a releasable anchor using the second rope to be efficient with our anchor materials and get Joe climbing quickly without needing to tear down a separate anchor at each station. The books listed below are examples of titles available on this subject (listing does not imply endorsement by the National Park Service). Rob belaying Joe up. If you are trying to coordinate a ride, feel free to send an email to info@northwestalpineguides.com and we can forward it to your fellow climbers. Although it took more time, I set up rappels on the tough sections of the chimneys. It was Robs first time ever rappelling on a real mountain. The Mountaineers, a 501(c)(3) nonprofit organization. We take privacy seriously. We reached the Sulphide glacier just as morning twilight was beginning. Our day started out pretty early. Everyone confronts this same issue in the backcountry. Back in May of this year (2022) I had offered to start up a 'climbing club' for my coworkers, to offer people a chance to get into the sport with minimal cost and also to continue maintain my own climbing instructional skills. The low-impact principles of Leave No Trace are important no matter what activity you are engaged in, but in the alpine and in popular climbing areas, some practices become critical to the ecological health of the area. Location: Mount ShuksanRatio: 2:1 climber to guide (max. All our guides carry current certification in wilderness first aid. Pick up a clear trail and descend 150 ft, turn right, traverse, descend another several hundred feet, finally coming out at the edge of a talus slope. Fisher Chimneys Route - Mt. If there is soil, dig a small cathole 6 8 inches deep and bury waste. 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